Dinner at Benchwarmer - Where Craft Beer Meets Izakaya Elegance

Written by David Hagger on 15 April 2025.

In a city awash with culinary innovation, it takes a rare synergy to stand out. Enter Benchwarmer, the West Melbourne gem that’s rewriting the rulebook on what a neighbourhood bar can be. The brainchild of beer connoisseur Lachlan “Locky” Jones and Michelin-starred chef Geoff Marett (ex-Yardbird), Benchwarmer isn’t just a pub, nor is it your typical izakaya—it’s a gastronomic power duo, a suburban legend reborn with global finesse.

Housed in a character-filled building with a grungy edge and glowing charisma, Benchwarmer invites you into its world with more than just charm. Its heart pulses in the details: a vibey courtyard, a coveted seat by the open kitchen where Geoff’s culinary choreography plays out, and a menu that pairs beer and bites with precision.

The food here isn’t trying to impress you with fireworks—it just does. Geoff Marett’s mastery lies in restraint and intuition. Every dish sings with balance, every sauce tells a story. The White Anchovy on Binbin crackers is a nostalgic snack turned haute cuisine, with wasabi verde adding an ethereal lift.

The Torched Ora King Salmon sashimi, kissed with dashi soy and kaffir lime, evokes both delicacy and depth. Then there’s the Ora Salmon Tostada—crispy wonton skin delivering crunch, silky salmon bringing creaminess, unified by deft seasoning. It’s everything a modern izakaya plate should be: playful, clever, and ultimately crave-worthy.

Comfort, however, is not forgotten. Rolled Rice Noodles slathered in “Grandma Sauce” and almond XO oil strike a soulful note, rich and warming, like the culinary version of a warm hug. Sake Clams, swimming in miso butter with slices of lap cheong, are the sort of dish that makes you abandon etiquette and swipe the bowl clean with a soft pineapple milk bun. This isn’t just fusion but an evolution.

And then, there’s the lip-smacking Shio Koji Pork Cheek: sticky, tender, and deeply umami. When paired with a dark porter from Locky’s tap collection, it becomes a symphony.

Locky, whose resume fuses finance savvy with beer geekery, curates one of Melbourne’s most exciting tap lists—18 rotating taps of sheer delight, including a citrus-kissed Yuzu Rice Lager brewed specifically for Benchwarmer and a farmhouse Molly Rose Saison that drinks like a dream. Every food item on the menu comes with a suggested beer pairing, but the offerings go further—sake shots pepper the experience with celebratory punctuation marks, reminding you that at its core, Benchwarmer is about joy.

Together, Locky and Geoff have created something special. The hospitality is warm, the aesthetic is raw but considered, and the food is executed with the confidence of a chef who’s cooked in the world’s elite kitchens but hasn’t forgotten how to have fun. Benchwarmer walks the fine line between elevated and approachable—whether you’re there for a quick pint and fries or an izakaya-inspired feast, you’re in for something memorable.

This is a suburban revival and a redefinition. Benchwarmer is a love letter to Japanese drinking culture, interpreted through Melbourne’s multicultural lens, and set to a soundtrack of clinking glasses and satisfied sighs.