⭐ Rating: 9.3/10
Verdict:
A bold, joyful reimagining of Malaysian cuisine that earns its place among Melbourne's best restaurants. Chef Junda Khoo's Ho Jiak is technically accomplished, deeply personal, and genuinely exciting from first bite to last. The Laksa Bombs alone are worth the trip.
Best for:
• The Signature Banquet experience ($118pp)
• Malaysian food fans wanting something beyond the ordinary
• Special occasions and group dining
• The famous Laksa Bombs — a Melbourne must-eat
Price: $$–$$$
Signature Banquet: $118pp
Ho Jiak is a bold move into the Melbourne restaurant scene but is changing Malaysian dining as we know it. Melbourne is no stranger to exceptional food, but every so often a restaurant emerges that doesn't just join the conversation - it shifts it. Ho Jiak is one of those venues. This is not simply another Malaysian restaurant in the CBD; it's a bold reimagining of what Malaysian cuisine can look like when technique, storytelling, and ambition align. We enjoyed a diverse and delicious banquet where boundaries were pushed when it comes to traditional notions of Malaysian food - and delightfully so.
At the centre of it all is Junda Khoo, a chef whose journey is as compelling as the food he serves. Once a high-flying professional at Macquarie Bank, Khoo made the kind of career pivot most people only talk about - leaving corporate life behind to pursue a deeply personal culinary vision. What followed was not just success, but influence. After making waves in Sydney, he has brought that same energy to Melbourne, establishing a trio of venues in Rainbow Alley that are already redefining expectations. Ho Jiak is one of the best Malaysian restaurants in Melbourne.
This is Malaysian dining elevated - refined, expressive, and unapologetically creative - yet still grounded in memory, heritage, and the unmistakable soul of home cooking. Ho Jiak is one of the best new restaurants in Melbourne.
A Banquet That Sets the Tone
The best way to experience Ho Jiak is through the Signature Banquet ($118pp), a carefully structured journey that showcases the breadth and depth of the kitchen. In a city where degustations can easily climb far higher in price, this offering feels not only generous but strategic - an invitation to experience the full narrative of the menu.
It begins with Achar - pickled vegetables that immediately awaken the palate. Bright, acidic, and refreshing, it’s a simple dish executed with precision, setting the tone for what follows. At Ho Jiak, even the smallest elements are treated with intent.
From there, the progression is deliberate. Each dish builds on the last, layering flavour, texture, and technique in a way that keeps you engaged from start to finish.
Precision and Playfulness in Equal Measure
The Raw Kingfish is an early highlight, paired with an Assam Laksa granita and pineapple salsa. It’s a dish that perfectly captures the kitchen’s philosophy - respecting tradition while reinterpreting it with a modern lens. The granita, in particular, is a masterstroke. Delivering the aromatic complexity of laksa in an icy, unexpected format, it refreshes and surprises in equal measure.
Then comes the King Prawn Toast with molten salted duck egg. This is where Ho Jiak takes something familiar and pushes it into new territory. The richness of the duck egg, combined with the crisp exterior and succulent prawn filling, creates a dish that is indulgent without tipping into excess. It’s the kind of plate that sparks immediate conversation - and likely repeat orders. To be honest this was the prawn toast of my dreams.
The Alaskan King Crab Slider follows, compact yet impactful. Sweet crab meat, lifted with chilli and chives, delivers a punch of flavour that feels both luxurious and addictive. It’s a reminder that at Ho Jiak, no dish is filler - every plate has a role to play.
The Icon: Laksa Bombs
No discussion of Ho Jiak is complete without its most famous creation: the Laksa Bombs. These have achieved near-legendary status, thanks in part to their appearance on MasterChef Australia, but their impact goes far beyond television.
Visually, they arrive as a work of art—vibrant, precise, almost sculptural. But it’s the concept that truly sets them apart. Each dumpling is designed to encapsulate the entire essence of a laksa in a single bite. The result is a burst of flavour that is both nostalgic and innovative, delivering all the richness, spice, and complexity of the classic dish in a completely new format.
It’s not just clever—it’s effective. This is culinary creativity that enhances the dining experience rather than distracting from it. One bite, and you understand exactly why it has become the restaurant’s signature.
Balancing Theatre With Substance
While the Laksa Bombs may be the headline act, the strength of Ho Jiak lies in its consistency. The dishes that follow continue to deliver both flavour and depth, ensuring the experience never plateaus.
The Moutai oven-roasted dry-aged corn-fed duck is a standout. Served with pancakes and condiments, it brings an interactive element to the table while showcasing technical precision. The duck is rich, aromatic, and perfectly balanced by the accompanying elements, making each bite customisable and engaging.
The chargrilled Loddon Valley lamb rump introduces a distinctly Australian element, paired with spiced garlic sambal, herbed yoghurt, and roti. It’s a thoughtful fusion—one that doesn’t feel forced, but rather natural and considered. The quality of the lamb shines through, while the Malaysian influences elevate it into something unique.
Claypot rice, often seen as a comfort staple, is transformed here with woodland fungi and truffle smoked soy. It’s deeply savoury, layered with umami, and indulgent without being heavy. This is comfort food reimagined for a more refined setting.
The eggplant bersira continues the theme of transformation. Sticky, crispy, and intensely flavourful, it delivers a satisfying combination of textures, enhanced by acar caramel and umami cream. It’s a dish that lingers in the memory long after the meal ends.
Desserts That Hold Their Own
Too often, desserts feel like an afterthought in otherwise strong menus. That’s not the case here. At Ho Jiak, the final course is given the same level of attention as everything that comes before it.
The pandan lava cake is rich and aromatic, paired with whisky crème and gula melaka for added depth. It’s indulgent, but balanced—sweetness offset by complexity.
The pisang crepe brûlée offers contrast, with caramelised banana, miso caramel, and coconut sorbet creating a dish that is both familiar and unexpected. The interplay of flavours keeps it interesting without overwhelming the palate.
Finally, the kuih mochi provides a lighter, textural finish. With pistachio and coconut, it rounds out the meal on a delicate note, ensuring the experience ends as strongly as it began.
A Drinks List With Intent
The drinks program at Ho Jiak is more than an afterthought—it’s an extension of the kitchen’s philosophy. Creative, considered, and designed to complement the food.
The Kopi Negroni is a standout, reworking the classic cocktail with coffee and spice to create something bold and distinctive. It’s the kind of drink that mirrors the menu—familiar, but reimagined.
A Lychee Spritz offers a lighter alternative, refreshing and aromatic. Meanwhile, the wine list introduces something less expected: labels from Ningxia, China, including selections from Xige Estate. These wines bring a unique perspective, pairing surprisingly well with the bold flavours of the menu.
And for those seeking simplicity, a crisp Tiger Beer remains a reliable and fitting choice.
The Story Behind the Food
What elevates Ho Jiak beyond technique and presentation is its narrative. This is food rooted in memory—specifically, the cooking of Khoo’s grandmother. That sense of nostalgia runs through the menu, grounding even the most modern dishes in something deeply personal.
It’s this balance—between innovation and tradition—that defines the experience. The food feels both new and familiar, pushing boundaries while remaining accessible.
Chef Ralph Soo and the kitchen team execute this vision with precision, ensuring consistency across every dish. The result is a dining experience that feels cohesive rather than experimental.
Value in a Competitive Market
In the context of Melbourne’s dining landscape, value is an increasingly important consideration. The $118 banquet at Ho Jiak stands out not just for its quality, but for its generosity.
This is a multi-course experience featuring premium ingredients, technical execution, and creative ambition—delivered at a price point that feels justified, if not surprising. It’s a reminder that fine dining doesn’t have to be inaccessible.
Final Verdict: A Must-Visit Melbourne Restaurant
There's a confidence to Ho Jiak that is hard to ignore. It knows exactly what it is, and it executes that vision with clarity and precision. From the playful opening dishes to the showstopping Laksa Bombs and the deeply satisfying mains, every element feels intentional.
This is nostalgic Malaysian soul food, elevated without losing its essence. It's a restaurant that delivers on flavour, creativity, and experience — while still maintaining a sense of generosity that resonates.
In a city as competitive as Melbourne, that combination is rare. Ho Jiak isn't just worth visiting — it's worth understanding.
What is Ho Jiak Melbourne famous for?
Ho Jiak is best known for its Laksa Bombs - dumplings that encapsulate the full flavour of a laksa in a single bite. They gained national attention after appearing on MasterChef Australia and remain the restaurant's most iconic dish.
Where is Ho Jiak Melbourne located?
Ho Jiak Melbourne is located in Rainbow Alley in the Melbourne CBD, where chef Junda Khoo operates a trio of venues.
How much does the Ho Jiak banquet cost?
The Signature Banquet at Ho Jiak Melbourne is priced at $118 per person. It covers multiple courses including entrées, mains, and desserts, representing strong value for the quality and quantity of food on offer.
Who is the chef at Ho Jiak Melbourne?
Ho Jiak was founded by Junda Khoo, a former Macquarie Bank professional who pivoted to a culinary career. The kitchen is run by Chef Ralph Soo, who executes Khoo's vision of elevated, heritage-driven Malaysian cuisine.
Is Ho Jiak Melbourne good for a special occasion?
Yes - the Signature Banquet format, creative dishes, and considered drinks program make Ho Jiak an excellent choice for birthdays, celebrations, or any occasion where you want a memorable dining experience in Melbourne's CBD.